A Stormy Night in Ladakh India

Solo cyclist Shirine heads straight for the storm in the Himalayas outside of Ladakh India

“Dang it, I’m going to get soaked,” think to myself as the heavy thunder clouds up ahead finally break. The small unpaved mountainous road I’m on is headed straight into the storm. Thankfully, if my map is correct, I’ll be hitting a “town,” which will most likely consist of a makeshift stone dhaba (small tea shop) or two, in ten kilometers. I hope to spend the night in one of the small shacks as a sleepless stormy night in my tent doesn’t sound too appealing. Of course, ten kilometers up here where I’m cycling at the speed of a toddler could take me all afternoon: cycling above 4,000m on unpaved roads is no easy feat. Hours pass and I’m finally two kilometers away. So close, yet still so far. And I am indeed completely soaked, and also completely freezing. I stop for a moment to change into dry clothes just before I realize that I have a small river to cross in front of me. Dang it, I just got dry! Instead of pushing my bike through as I usually do, I decide to ride through in order to avoid soaking my new socks and pants. Of course, halfway through I trip, and my bike and I take a plunge into the icy cold glacier melt.

As I slowly pick myself up and begin to proceed on my way, I realize that I’m shaking. I’m absolutely freezing. Night is quickly approaching, and with it, my need for food and shelter is growing stronger. But the sign says only two more kilometers so I push on, there is no way I’m setting up my tent in this wet and cold mess.

I finally see a building ahead and all I can think about is a nice warm meal and my cozy sleeping bag. I’ll finally be able to feel my toes again! But as I approach I realize that something is off, these aren’t small stone dhabas like I’m use to seeing, but rather a large abandoned government building. This is definitely not what I had in mind.

I desperately yell out anyways, and to my surprise, a head pokes out from one of the doors. I ask if he has a room, and he points me into his small section of the building where blankets are laid on the floor. As I realize he is the only one around, in fact, probably the only human within thirty kilometers, I start to panic. I can’t stay here, in an Indian guy’s room, in the middle of nowhere. That goes against everything I have learned about traveling alone as a female. So I leave, I go back outside and stand by my bike in the pouring rain and contemplate what to do next.

The man comes out and tells me in broken English that it’s safe, and that in any case, I have nowhere else to go. The storm will continue all night, he says, you need shelter. So I decide to trust my instincts which are telling me he is just trying to help and follow him back in. He leaves to let me change in privacy, then cooks me a noodle soup with egg while I hunker down in a large pile of thick blankets. As I accept my second steaming hot cup of tea I realize that coming inside was indeed the right decision, though I’m definitely still on alert.

I fall asleep somewhat uneasily, pepper spray in hand under the covers, and am practically scared to death at two a.m. when someone begins viciously knocking on the door. As I cower under the blanket my host jumps up to answer. After speaking with the stranger for a few moments, he announces to me that he is leaving, and tosses me his keys.

Leaving? At two a.m. in the middle of a storm… on a motorcycle? While leaving a stranger with your keys? I quickly remind myself that I’m in India, and in India, anything and everything is possible.

After he leaves I quickly fall asleep again, and awake in the morning to a beautifully sunny day. I cook breakfast, dry my wet clothes on the fence outside, and laugh at the absurdity of a night in the Himalayas.

Shirine Taylor is a 20-year old girl cycling around the world, and a regular contributor to The Happy Passport. Follow her journey at awanderingphoto.wordpress.com

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6 comments on “A Stormy Night in Ladakh India

    1. Rebekah Voss Post author

      Thanks for your comment, Penelope! Shirine is super brave but also seems to have cultivated really good instincts. Luckily they were spot on with this guy!

  1. Shirine Taylor

    Yeah it’s funny how much easier it is more me to tell now if a situation is going to be dangerous, and though everything in this situation was “wrong” intellectually, I never felt threatened or scared like I have in other situations which should actually be “right.”

    1. Rebekah Voss Post author

      It’s all about instinct, right? I’ve also done a bunch of “dangerous” things (lots of walking alone at night, etc) but I always go by what my gut says. For instance, the other night I was walking into my hotel and there was this drunk German man and I KNEW I needed to stay away from him. I don’t know why or how I knew that, but damn if I didn’t hightail it to my room and lock the door as fast as possible!!

  2. mediodiablo

    Wow, a short, yet infinite, story. Cycling above 4,000m. Cycling. (I could barely walk carrying a bottle of water at 3,400m in Cusco). And then stumbling upon a deserted building… amazing. Shirine is making us here in la-la land feel like unexciting robots 😉

    1. Rebekah Voss Post author

      I know, it makes me tired just reading it! I’ll thank on Shirine’s behalf for now because at the moment she’s cycling somewhere in the middle of Turkey – talk about RTW trip!


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